The unlimited power of the ocean, it’s great weight upon me, as I try to piece together the past and the present. The other evening in Cornwall while surfing , I sat on my board waiting for a wave, the light had changed to monochrome as I watched the sun become hidden behind the clouds, for just a second I felt like the colour of everything had been washed away, with no sense of time or worry, just me and my board and the calmness of the sea moving beneath me. I think it is true when people say ‘the ocean washes away everything’. It teaches you what is of true value, it helps you to heal and let’s face it we are all healing from something in this life. This wondrous place connects you to the earth with a sense of fear and awe.
‘It’s our own private church our own private temple’ – Documentary by Patagonia entitled ‘Fishpeople’.
Capturing surfing through the medium of photography is the ability to understand and connect to the joy each person has as they catch their own wave in life. I may not always be able to see their faces as I press the shutter, but I grasp the freedom and energy they feel in that moment. I have to take a picture.
Listen to Taro/Handmade by band Alt-J